Bustling traffic, rickshaws, people running helter skelter... 50 wires attached to one electricity pole and running along the top of the numerous shops.. smell of ghee tickling your senses from a distance... traffic at a complete standstill for more than 5 mins at the redlight, in which time pedestrians zig-zag through the rickshaws, autos, scooters, an occasional car, trolleys to get to the other side of the road.. little bit dirty but not filthy... foreigners takings pics, sitting on rickshaws pulling them through the narrow galis.. colourful lehengas, sarees and dupattas in bright fuschia pink, yellow and turqouise blue (sometimes all in one saree!).. narrow and steep staircases running up to little rooms tucked away in corners of the building, hosting a range of sarees, jewellery etc... old uncles with potbellies negotiating on the order price of lehengas with glowing and pretty bride-to-bes.. the bride-to-be's eyes sparkling with pleasure on seeing that one diamond set that will steal away the evening! groups of people sitting cross-legged on the mattresses in the shops, drinking chai, brides, buas, mausis and mas conferring with each other to choose the right colour, embroidery and workmanship... men running after prospective customers with visiting cards saying "behenji, dekhengi to foren le lengee yeh sarees".. salesmen assuring customers in full-throated confidence that "aise cheez aur kaheen nahin milegi" whilst the next shop has the same thing and probably for less! and little children scuttering around, chasing each other and hiding in dark corners.. young kids taking orders from customers in the nukkad ke shops, with everyone screaming "chottu, pehle idhar order le!"... and the paranthas! At first one thinks they will be heavily laden with ghee and therefore indisgestible (umm, you may have guessed I am not an 'aloo parantha for breakfast' person!)... but the paranthas turn out to be light and not too thick (read 'fattening') and very very tasty! And then one wonders about how some of the nicest food in India are from galis and little corners, paying just Rs 25 for a tasty delight in the hustle-bustle of the streets instead of Rs250 for so-so food in 5 star environs!
So this was Chandni Chowk.. the place I had heard so much about but never experienced... one really needs to be in Chandni chowk to realise where the heart-beat of the city is.. usually I get very flustered and harassed in crowded places, and being a non-Delhiite essentially (well, in the sense that I didn't go to either school or college here), I had only heard of Chandni chowk but never actually been there.. so this weekend when my Mom had some work there, I joined her and thought of exploring the place a bit... and the outcome was pretty cool.. I was quite delighted by the little streets, small staircases leading to little shops.. people spend there lives in these cubby holes and I am sure they earn big bucks from it! And I thought it was quite clean... though perhaps I chose to be blind to the dirt, if any, in my endeavour to make the most of my trip and not crib! But anyways I've been to worse places, so it really didn't seem as bad as people had made it out to be! We had to meet someone there, and the person's shop was on top of the terrace of a small building... we climbed one narrow staircase, then another narrower one and reached the terrace.. and we find this guy's shop on a small extension way over the terrace, which we had to reach by climbing yet another 4 or 5 steps, without railings on either side, and steep and narrow as hell! It was so cute... this little world they had made for themselves... adjusting with each other's requirements due to mutual lack of space, living their lives in these small havens they had created for themselves... and living it happily and merrily...
Hmmm... I may have romanticised the experience a bit in my head, but at the end of the day, it turned out to be a good experience... it was like an event in my life.. "oh you know, today I went to Chandni chowk!"... too bad I could not visit the other side which I have heard sells stationary (stuff DU students love buying) for students, painting, wedding cards etc etc.. would have been interesting I am sure! But I did get to visit the famous paranthe-wali gali and it turned out to be as good as people had told me it would be! :-))
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20 comments:
Hey that was a beautiful description ...Congratulations to you on braving the streets of Chandni chowk and coming out with such gud memories..Unfortunately for me ,whenever i go there , there is always some 'juloos' going on for something or the other and it looks like hell...but yes, parathe wali gali..ummm..now u have got me craving !!
very nice! :)
it's quite strange if you couple it with the metro experience. Coz you travel in this fancy, firang type of transport and get out right in the heart of the hustle bustle, so far removed from what you expect delhi to be!!
when i'd gone to paranthe wali gali had expected rows and rows of paranthas but had found only 4-5 shops so was a bit disappointed but those sinful paranthas totally made up for it all!
hope u tried the rabdi parantha.... we'd tried a whooping 13 types!
`shilpi
yeah, me too... after i wrote the post, i felt like eating the nimbu parantha or the pudina parantha! hmm.. nice....
`z
yeah same here!! i was like "THIS is the famous paranthe wali gali?!".. just 4 or 5 little shops, but suuuucchhh good paranthas! well we tried just 4 tpyes.. but then there were just 2 of us..
Nice read buddy:-)..
i klove chandani chowk... have been frequenting there since the time metro opened...and it takes me some 7 minutes to reach there from my office...
surprisingly i find going there more tranquil than visiting the usual city hangouts... there is an honesty about that place... people are real...and not affected by silly pretences...
its a place where chaos breeds order ( cool one na... i am impressed with myself ... he he)... somehow relaxes me..
paranthas,yummmmmmyyyyyy :-)
Chandni chowk, Paharganj, Darya Ganj...bring such vivid images to mind...and you really bring it out.. of the limited time ive spent there (a few visits all told), i've always felt a strange sense of nostalgia and warmth...for no, apparent reason, i spent an afternoon (i was supposed to be making work calls) sitting on the pavement eating jamuns..they were off the street and were unwashed and despite all the parental training, i couldnt resist sitting and having them...and offering them to the jamun waala...and 30 minutes later, the chai stall guy (across from where i was sitting) sent me over a chai! cna you imagine...the nostalgia, i guess cos the whole place reeks of British Raj days and the hustle and bustle that is India..unchanged for centuries..
yup warmth and nostalgia
hmmmm...ruchika thoda mumbai bhi parcel kardo yaar...mouth watering ha........
the girth of a nation :) the india today made me realise that i was like that apple :) rather being like a pear!! a mouth wattering article :) this is the gae to eat naa... nanna munna typez but i guess so much 'lookz' issue on the mind... dunno whether the smells n tastes wud last this decade! saadi delhi yaad dila diya :)
wish i cud get my hands oily again!! :)
`ajay
thanks
`the vestige
hehe, i'm impressed too! :-) yes u are right that people are more real, the place has a strange liveliness to it which cannot be found in today's modern malls etc..
`manish
hehe, i know!
`pranavbal
wow, how cool is that?! u ate jamuns off the street?! and then some chaiwalla sent u chai 'complimentary from the management, sir' :-)) hehe.. very cool..
`vikas
well, virtual food could be a reality in the near future.. where you could taste and smell what is being described on 'paper'! :-)
`der bergwind
well, if something as modern as the delhi metro can co-exist with the festive, old day charm of chandni chowk, i think that it will last thru the decade (atleast!).. cheers to taht thought!
HAPPY DIWALI everyone! :-))
hey ruchika,
wishing you and your family a very happy and safe Diwali :)
will come back to read and comment about the paratha ;)
remidns me of Crawford Market in bbay.. and there its the falooda kulfi thats most sought after!
very well written...have never gone dere..so had no idea what u were talking about..but it was really well worded..and u get a bit hooked to it...will have to check out the place once i get back to delhi..
`dewaker
thanks, and hope you had a great diwali too.. and do come back for posting your comments on the paranthas :-)
`zoxcleb
yes, have been to crawford market.. something about old-world charm that really gets me going..
`shantanu
though i feel that the post is a romanticised version of the actual chandni chowk (depending on how you look at it, it can either be an overwhelming experience, or an enjoyable one)... u must visit atleast once, to understand the real india, right in the heard of the nation's capital..
beautifully carved..
Chandi chowk strike in mind - old market throughout India, be it of delhi or Kolkata or any other cities. Narrow lane, gali, rickshaw, sweets, foods, some mandir/masjid nearby, cheaper good, ethenic cloths, saris, etc etc..
"Old is Gold", one cannot afford to visit always, but once in a while, (as a event as said)is worthy experience.
Oh My God! I love you and hate you for this post all at once!
Sitting so far away I was instantly transported back to our innumerable trips there from college (yes I'm a north campus graduate!) and I just sooo wanna go back!
Thanks for bringing up the memories! But now I'm sooo homesick early in the morning!!
This has nothing to with Chandini Chowk, well not totally...but I have come to this blog after ages and this one post made me read a lot other posts on this blog...and I am glad it did...for its taken me into the mind of a Circuit like friend :)...and you just realise that blogs are absolutely wonderful...you talk, you can even spend quality time together, but when you put down thoughts in words you really let go and be your true self...
Talking about this Cicuit like friend...I completely forgot her birthday and feel terrible about it...
Life is not worth it if you get so busy and don't have time for people who really mean so much to you...
I am really sorry Ruchi...and I mean that!!! Any excuse is really not giving...
But I am glad the guilt made me get to your blog...and I sure do love it...
:)
Your brithday gift...you have earned one loyal reader :)...
Hi Ruchika, it's very unusual of you not to have blogged for as long as you've this time..kill the suspense please :)
hey I have heard so much about this famous paratha wali galli that last time I was in Delhi(for 5hrs) I took a Metro to Chandni Chowk. However to my utter surprise when I asked couple of folks where Paratha Walli Galli was people had absolutely no clue..Any directions how to get there..maybe next time I shall be tard bit lucky :)
`Chander
Hehehe.. directions?!! Believe me, I only reached due to my mom's amazing direction sense and awareness of Delhi roads! else i'd be wondering where it is too.. and you the reason why people dont know it? Coz actually the ENTIRE paranthe-wali gali consists of just 4 little nondescript shops!
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